NIKOLE.ver[s].THE.PLACE

Day 226 : San Pedro de Atacama

2009-11-22T22:06:00.015-05:00

Puritama Thermal Pools! More to come...

Day 225 : Agua Brava

2009-11-22T19:53:00.014-05:00

More to come!

Click here for Agua Brava photos!

Day 224 : Laguna Colorada

2009-11-18T16:03:00.011-05:00

This morning I woke up early to catch the sunrise over the salt flats. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen...

Last night I slept in one of the Salar de Uyuni's 'Salt Hotels'. From the outside it looked like nothing to write home about, but inside, it was an entirely different story. Note to self: Don't judge a book by its cover!

They're not joking when they say that everything is made of salt! The flooring, the walls, the tables, the beds, you name it, it's salty (well, except the toilets of course)! Below is a photo of the litter box-like floor surface. The salt crystals were glistening beautifully in the early morning sun.

Honestly, I was somewhat surprised with how serene and special this salt space is. Part of me expected a dark, damp, dilapidated shack, but this was nothing but bright, warm, and comfortable. I imagine it was more or less relatively affordable as well. As I said, everything was made of salt, a natural resource at the local's disposal. The roofs were made of corrugated metal and clear sheets in a way that allows an abundance of natural light to flood the space. Needless to say, I was impressed...

Tables and chairs...made of salt blocks!

The ceilings were nicely constructed by simply using a white tarp to cover the mess of structure and corrugated sheets that create the roofing system. The electrical network pokes through indiscretely when needed.

A pile of salt blocks sits in the corner of the room, waiting to be used.

After thoroughly examining the salt hotel I headed out the door, ready for another day of transversing the landscape between Bolivia and Chile.

For a minute I thought I was daydreaming about being on the moon, or some crazy planet. But then a big cloud of dust filled my mouth and I realized, no, this is real! Even the Pink Flamingos are real!

Even Salvador Dali's Desert was real!

Even the Laguna Colorada was real!

Click here for Laguna Colorada photos!

Day 223 : Salar de Uyuni

2009-11-16T19:42:00.022-05:00

This morning I hopped in the 4 by 4 to begin my adventure across the Salar de Uyuni. The town of Uyuni is a funny little place, a lot like a dusty, abandoned ghost town from a western film. I expected to see a cowboy fly by on his horse, but instead there were just lots of Bolivian Bowler Babes walking to and fro...

Where the desert meets the Salar de Uyuni you can find the Train Cemetary, a definite tourist attraction in amidst No-Man's Land.

Unfortunately the landscape is more or less covered with plastic bags and garbage, at least in areas adjacent to the town of Uyuni. It's really a shame that there's not an apparent trash disposal system in place. This doll didn't survive the harsh conditions!

The salt flats were extremely hot, despite the snowy appearance. Shade was scarce but sleeping surfaces were not!

My 4 by 4 driver, Marin!

After lunch I hiked to the top of Isla de los Pescadores to get a more all-encompassing view of the Salar de Uyuni.

The towns and people that flank The Salar survive mainly on the natural salt deposits that are at their disposal. There are several piles like the one below that have been harvested by Salt Workers.

A salt separating mechanism. These machines look entirely antique, and more or less like decorations, but the locals actually use them, and in fact, they depend on them!

A dead, dry cactus atop the Isla de los Pescadores.

At the top of the island I discovered several rock piles, a traditional construction along the routes of epic journies, usually found at high points along the way.

Click here for Salar de Uyuni photos!

Day 222 : Potosi

2009-11-16T19:08:00.009-05:00

I hopped on a public bus from Potosi to Uyuni today, which took us through some incredible landscapes. There was lots of roadside activity along the way...

Mud bricks drying in the strong South American sun...

I fell in love the mining mountain in Potosi. The colors were phenomenal. It sparkled like a star!

Click here for Potosi photos!

Day 221 : Potosi

2009-11-12T16:35:00.012-05:00

While I was in Sucre I watched the documentary film The Devil's Miner. It was eye opening to say the least. There wasn't a dry eye in the room. When I reached Potosi I had to make the decision whether or not I should visit the actual mine. After an internal debate I decided to go in, hoping that my presence and presents (a bag of "Miner Goods" like coca leaves, dynamite, biscuits, etc.) could potentially brighten the day of a Miner Man or two. Potosi is claimed to be the highest city in the world. It's most definitely a blue color city that is more or less solely dependent on it's natural resources found in the mountains.

Government Miner Housing more or less adjacent to the primary mining site.

Before I entered the mine I was greeted by a young boy, maybe 10 years old or so, that wanted to sell me some of his stones. He had the brightest smile and most sincere stare. And his hands amazed me, they were so wrinkled and worn even though he was only 10 years old. Boys begin working in the mines at the age of 12 and may work up to 12 hour shifts, both day and night. The younger children and wives of miners tend to related jobs outside of the mine, like sorting through scraps, selling stones, guarding the mine entrance, etc.

A Miner Man hunches over his pile of rubble, sifting through it in search of silver...

Inside the mine it was dark (obviously), damp and dusty. There were statues of Pachamama and Tio, which the Miners pray to multiple times, daily.

Click here for Potosi photos!

Day 217 : Cochabamba

2009-11-12T10:52:00.020-05:00

Today I took a bus from La Paz to Cochabamba. I must admit, I was a bit sad to leave this incredible, chaotic city. It's full of life, color, and energy! The landscape between the two cities was rather beautiful, as were the people that we passed along the way...

Mud Bricks!

My fascination with Bolivian Bowler Babes continues. Not just because of their super cool hats, but also because of the way they flood the streets with temporary markets, filling cities and villages with energy, excitement and items!

Day 220 : Sucre

2009-11-06T20:37:00.009-05:00

I spent my final day in Sucre browsing around the massive, local market. There were lots of people, lots of noise, and lots of...MEAT! I could spend hours in the market, just observing the activity and exchanges between people...

Click here for Sucre photos!

Day 219 : Sucre

2009-11-06T13:58:00.025-05:00

Today I decided to take a quick break from the usual sight seeing and architectural explorations and instead spent my time visiting a local Girl's Orphanage. A few of us threw some extra Bolivianos together and bought some small gifts, like jump ropes, hula hoops, volleyballs, bracelets and bras then made a special delivery. Needless to say the girls seemed thrilled with out presents and presence!

Click here for Sucre photos!

Day 218 : Cochabamba

2009-11-06T13:40:00.005-05:00

Yesterday I traveled from La Paz to Cochabamba, what seems to be a relatively middle class town. I suppose that their claim to fame is the massive Christ Statue that is perched on a hilldside, overlooking the city. My favorite aspect of the city was its massive market, truly a treat for all of the senses...

Click here for Cochabamba photos!

Day 216 : La Paz

2009-11-06T09:49:00.017-05:00

Today I decided to stray away from the markets a bit, in an effort to explore the quieter side streets of La Paz. First I had to fight the hustle and bustle of the cities main arteries...

I came across a number of interesting construction sites today during my walk...

It seemed inevitable that I would find myself strolling in the market at some point today as La Paz probably has as many street markets as it does people! I didn't spend much time there this afternoon though, as this lady chased me away pretty quickly. It's always advised to ask permission to take someone's photograph, but I normally don't follow this rule as it typically results in a big, fat "NO"! Today my ignorance led to being pelted with a pig's foot...

Click here for La Paz photos!

Day 215 : La Paz

2009-11-05T20:57:00.018-05:00

La Paz construction sites and others. More to come...

Click here for La Paz photos!

Day 214 : La Paz

2009-11-05T17:54:00.026-05:00

I spent my first full day in La Paz wandering around its crowded streets that blanket the dramatic hillsides. I quickly became rather obsessed with the market scenes, watching the "Bolivian Bowler Babes" conduct their daily business...

The La Paz markets are rather intense as their offer an abundance of sensory stimulation...

I was actually quite surprised to see the abundance of new construction that is taking place within the city. Here you can see a piece from the past reflected on a 'modern' glass facade...

I must admit that I was initially a bit frightened by the overwhelming presence of 'Shoe Shiners' that are scattered throughout the city, mostly due to what seems to be their uniform - a full face ski mask. I'm not quite sure why they wear it? Some say provides protection from the sun, smog, and stinky feet. Others say it helps disguise their identity...

Click here for La Paz photos!

Day 213 : La Paz

2009-11-04T14:05:00.009-05:00

Today I made my way across the border between Peru and Bolivia via Desaguadero. It was an interesting journey which included running between countries over a footbridge to obtain photos copies, change, and finally, a $135 Bolivian Visa. After sprinting back and forth in fear that I would miss the bus I had the pleasure of sitting in the hot altiplano sun watching Bolivians carry various goods back and forth between the two countries...

Click here for La Paz photos!

Day 212 : Lake Titicaca

2009-11-02T16:47:00.015-05:00

I enjoyed my experience at the Uros Floating Islands so much that I decided to return for a second time this morning. It's true, this lifestyle may be a bit primitive and far fetched to imagine modern day people accepting and adjusting to this way of life, but I find some aspects of the Uros Floating Islands to be rather inspirational and potentially influential regarding modern day construction. The idea is rather powerful, that one can construct a self-sustaining society based purely on found, natural materials in the environment.

The local that was kind enough to show me around explained that this particular, pointed roof dwelling was for the Grandparents on the island. The remainder of the family members use dwellings such as the one on the photo above.

One of the local men demonstrated how they cut and anchor the land using typical hand saws and rope. Multiple pieces of land may be fused together through the natural growth process over a short period of time. It's equally easy enough to cut and detach pieces of land in the case of family fueds or trouble with neighbors.

Click here for Lake Titicaca photos!

Day 211 : Lake Titicaca

2009-10-28T15:31:00.013-04:00

This morning Toyin and I woke up to begin our adventure from Amantani Island to Taquille Island. After an hour long boat ride we docked at Taquille and began our trek across the island. Along the way I discovered this special lock on many of the island homes.

The island is more or less self-sufficient as they produce several core crops including potatoes. Fish is also a staple in their diet along with rice and Quinoa.

Roof Detail...

A view of Amantani Island from Taquille Island.

The lovely family that Toyin and I stayed with for a night on Amantani Island. The photo was taken in their mud brick courtyard.

Click here for Lake Titicaca photos!

Day 210 : Lake Titicaca

2009-10-22T16:30:00.016-04:00

The Uros Floating Islands! More to come...

Click here for Lake Titicaca photos!

Day 209 : Puno

2009-10-18T22:14:00.014-04:00

This morning Toyin and I hopped on a bus from Cusco to Puno. It was a rather long ride, but wow, we traveled through some rather incredible landscapes. One of the many things that piqued my interest was the way in which rural communities tend to draw on the landscape with stone, to outline their territory. From afar it has a rather beautiful effect...

Not sure what this distinct line means, or how it was made, but it's pretty awesome.

Along the way we passed numerous shepards, walking with their sheep, literally in the middle of nowhere...

A roadside cemetary

It was clear when we were nearing Lake Titicaca as the landscape became less arid and more wet. The locals were most definitely taking advantage of this change, using the Lake Titicaca runoff too cool down, do some laundry and wash their vehicles!

Click here for Puno photos!

Day 208 : The Inca Trail

2009-10-18T21:04:00.013-04:00

Machu Picchu! From the Sun Gate! More to come...

Click here for Inca Trail photos!

Day 207 : The Inca Trail

2009-10-18T15:42:00.011-04:00

This morning we woke up early and attempted to warm up with a bit of hot Coca Tea. From there we started out for Day Three of the Inca Trail Trek.

Along the way we passed a number of breath taking Inca ruins.

Click here for Inca Trail photos!

Day 206 : The Inca Trail

2009-10-17T21:03:00.010-04:00

Today's post is a bit of a tribute to the incredible porters that I've met along the Inca Trail. These men are simply outstanding, both in physical and spiritual terms. I can't really fathom walking up and down these hills, in sandals, carrying 25 kilos on my back, all just to set up camp and cook for a bunch of foreigners.

Click here for Inca Trail photos!

Day 205 : The Inca Trail

2009-10-17T18:41:00.011-04:00

Day one on the Inca Trail! More to come..

Click here for Inca Trail photos!

Day 204 : Cusco

2009-10-16T11:43:00.013-04:00

Moray and Salinas de Maras! More to come...

Click here for Cusco photos!

Day 203 : Cusco

2009-10-16T11:14:00.005-04:00

For our first day in Cusco we took it easy in an attempt to adjust to the altitude and prepare for our Inca Trail Trek...

Click here for Cusco photos!

Day 202 : El Cañon del Colca

2009-10-15T20:48:00.014-04:00

More to come...

Click here for El Cañon del Colca photos!

Day 201 : El Cañon del Colca

2009-10-15T12:13:00.014-04:00

This morning I woke up to a kitchen full of Guinea Pigs! More to come...

Click here for El Cañon del Colca photos!

Day 200 : El Cañon del Colca

2009-10-14T12:02:00.005-04:00

A three day journey to the Cañon del Colca begins. More to come...

Click here for El Cañon del Colca photos!

Day 199 : Arequipa

2009-10-13T16:46:00.015-04:00

The Santa Catalina Monastery! More to come...

Click here for Arequipa photos!

Day 198 : Nazca

2009-10-13T11:04:00.014-04:00

This morning we woke up early to catch a bus from Ica to Nazca where we would fly over the mysterious Nazca Lines. There are numerous theories as to how and why the Nazca People constructed these lines but in general they seem to have some sort of religious and astronomical significance. It seems they thought 'The earth is our canvas and we're gonna draw'. And draw they did. I'll let the images speak for themselves...

The town of Nazca from above...

During the bus ride between Ica and Nazca there were several buildings, both abandoned and lived in, that were plastered with political ads and campaigns.

A roadside cemetary

The suburbs?

There are two ways to view the Nazca Lines. 1) Via a viewing platform or 2) Via a 3-5 passanger airplane. We chose option two and it was well worth it as it provided us with the following views...

After a bumpy, hot plane ride we made our way back to the town if Nazca to wander around a bit before our overnight bus to Arequipa.

Click here for Nazca photos!

Day 197 : Huacachina

2009-10-13T09:10:00.018-04:00

A bus took us from Lima to Ica this morning, at which point I hopped in a taxi bound for the small desert oasis of Huacachina. Later, Toyin and I made our way into the desert to experience the sands in the afternoon sunlight. I can't really describe the desert's beauty with words. Let's just say it was rather breathtaking...

The city of Ica seen in the distance...

These dunes aren't just beautiful, they serve a purpose too...SAND BOARDING!

Click here for Huacachina photos!

Day 196 : Lima

2009-10-12T14:37:00.007-04:00

Last night I met Toyin in the Bogota, Colombia airport. From there we made our way to Lima, where we arrived late last night. Today while walking around my initital observations were : It's GRAY and it's COLD! Hence the black and white photos. It's very beautiful nonetheless, particularly along the dramatic coastline.

A neat little church we discovered in the Barranco Neighborhood.

Click here for Lima photos!

Day 195 : Mexico City

2009-10-12T09:28:00.005-04:00

Sadly it is my final day in Mexico. I took an overnight bus from Guanajuato back to the D.F. and was greeted by Simon and his roommates, Roman and Gabriela, in a living room full of Mezcal at 4am! After getting a few hours of sleep we grabbed brunch in the neighborhood then I was on my way to the airport, en route to Lima, Peru!

I fell in love with this Colonia Roma bus. Not only is it beautiful with its bright and bold grafitti, but it also serves a fun purpose! Apparently on the weekends it transforms into a scultpure space, where local artists gather to produce their work and engage with the community. What a neat idea!

Click here for Mexico City photos!

Day 194 : Guanajuato

2009-10-11T13:32:00.005-04:00

To my surprise there was a fun sidewalk street art festival throughout the center of Guanajuato today. After cruising around some more of the seductive side streets I spent the afternoon admiring the artistic talent that filled the city center.

It was great to see everyone, artists and observers, locals and tourists, fill the streets.

Click here for Guanajuato photos!

Day 193 : Guanajuato

2009-10-07T17:56:00.013-04:00

I spent today wandering around the small hillside streets of Guanajuato, an activity that honestly, I could never get bored of. The city is extremely charming, despite the fact that it seems a bit more touristy than most of the other spots I have hit in Mexico. It's quite easy to lose yourself in the steep streets. From above Guanajuato appears to be a colorful blanket that's draped delicately over the green topography.

The city reminds me a bit of Chefchouen, Morroco or Jodhpur, India in the sense that the streets create a labrynth-like matrix across the hillsides making me feel like a five-year-old in a game of hide and seek.

The streets, systems, buildings, and thresholds have to respond to the rather steep topography throughout Guanajuato. In many cases the solutions are rather interesting...

A rather interesting anchoring system for a street market canopy.

Construction sites continue to fascinate me, especially when they have to respond to the landscape.

Click here for Guanajuato photos!

Day 192 : Guanajuato

2009-10-07T16:47:00.006-04:00

I spent most of today on a bus from Mexico City to Guanajuato. When I arrived in the late afternoon the small city was sparkling in the sunlight. I'm looking forward to my next few days here...

Click here for Guanajuato photos!

Day 191 : Mexico City

2009-10-01T17:14:00.008-04:00

It was rather quiet in Mexico City today as it was Mexico's Independence Day. It seemed that most people were spending their day off with family and friends. Simon and I decided to check out Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul, a quaint and quirky little house in Coyoacan.

From there we met up with Mike and strolled over to Viveros de Coyoacan, one of Mexico City's many beautiful parks.

Click here for Mexico City photos!

Day 190 : Palenque

2009-09-29T16:28:00.012-04:00

We woke up early this morning to check out Palenque before the heat became too hellish. It's a pretty incredible site, perhaps because its spaces are a bit more accesible than some of the other ruins I have visited. My favorite aspect was the triangular arch systems that are found throughout.

My favorite building within the complex...

Click here for Palenque photos!

Day 189 : Agua Azul

2009-09-29T14:44:00.013-04:00

A lack of light, visability, and even roads in some cases, left us with no other choice but to cut our drive to Palenque short with an overnight pitt stop in the town of Ocosingo. We woke up early to continue our drive to our final destination. Now we could finally appreciate the beautiful views.

Along the way we stopped at Agua Azul, which during the rainy season is more like 'Agua Marrón'. It was still pretty spectacular.

As we walked along the falls we were able to observe the construction of a jungle hut. These guys seemed to have the assembly system down...

From Aqua Azul we drove to Palenque and found ourselves a nice little jungle bungalow...

Click here for Agua Azul photos!

Day 188 : El Cañón del Sumidero

2009-09-29T11:47:00.013-04:00

This morning we got an early start and began back tracking to the Cañón del Sumidero in Tuxtla Gutiérrez. It tooks us a bit longer to get there than we had anticipated, but once we arrived it was well worth it! We first viewed it from above, then took a boat ride through the canon for a closer view.

A point of pilgrimage in the canon.

'Christmas Tree Waterfall'

Birds and fish aren't the only animals that live in this water!

After our boatride through the canon we started out for our next destination : Palenque. Let's see how far we get tonight.

San Cristobal de Las Casas at sunset...

Click here for El Cañón del Sumidero photos!

Day 187 : San Cristobal de Las Casas

2009-09-29T10:01:00.007-04:00

After an overnight bus from Oaxaca to San Cristobal de Las Casas I met up with Mike, Noel, and Simon for what would be our 4 day road trip through Chiapas. This morning we started by exploring a bit of the city and it's beautiful churches.

'Sketchy' architects on vacation.

This afternoon we visited the small town of San Juan Chamula by horse back. Once we arrived in town we made our way to the Church of San Juan, quite possibly one of the most moving religious spaces I have seen throughout my nine month adventure. The interior of the church is rather stark and dimly lit. The floor is covered in pine boughs and the white walls are stained with smoke. Lit candles line the perimeter of the space and form several islands throughout the surface of the floor. I stood in awe as locals entered, brushed aside the pine boughs to claim their territory, planted their candles and arranged their coke bottles, then began to pray. When the process was complete they scraped the wax from the floor and carefully covered their prayer patch with pine boughs. The process was mezmorizing - I could have watched for hours...

Click here for San Cristobal de Las Casas photos!

Day 186 : Oaxaca

2009-09-24T21:21:00.007-04:00

I spent most of today wandering around Oaxaca for the final time, in and out of street markets and galleries. This evening I boarded a bus to San Cristobal de Las Casas where I will meet Mike, Noel, and Simon for our Chiapas Roadtrip.

For the past four days I've been moved by how incredible the Oaxaca ceiling is. Tonight during my departure the skies put on their final, and most fantastic show for me...

Click here for Oaxaca photos!

Day 185 : Oaxaca

2009-09-21T22:57:00.009-04:00

This morning I threw on my raincoat hopped on a minibus bound for Mt. Alban. The site's impressive for several reasons, it's location, it's scale, and it's ingenuity.

Click here for Oaxaca photos!

Day 184 : Oaxaca

2009-09-20T15:25:00.015-04:00

More to come...

Click here for Oaxaca photos!

Day 183 : Oaxaca

2009-09-18T23:29:00.008-04:00

Much more to come...

Click here for Oaxaca photos!

Day 182 : Mexico City

2009-09-18T22:58:00.003-04:00

Today I made my way to the Luis Barragan House. It's a mighty fine piece of architecure with lots of quirky and cool characteristics, none of which are apparent from the exterior. No photos = Lots of sketching!

Click here for Mexico City photos!

Day 181 : Mexico City

2009-09-10T21:01:00.009-04:00

More to come...

Click here for Mexico City photos!

Day 180 : Mexico City

2009-09-10T20:09:00.006-04:00

Today I took a stroll across town from Simon's apartment in Colonia Roma to the Chapultepec Park. Once inside I checked out the Anthropology Museum, which I have to say, is a must if you find yourself in Mexico City. Not only is the building kind of cool, but the exhibits are beautifully done and the place is jam packed with loads of interesting information!

Click here for Mexico City photos!

Day 179 : Mexico City

2009-09-10T00:25:00.009-04:00

My lovely host Simon has been kind enough to lend me his Canon Powershot while my Nikon sits patiently awaiting repair in a Mexico City Camera Shop. I'm ashamed to admit that I have become a bit of a camera snob. It was tought to take shots today without my niftly little Nikon, but I tried. Needless to say, these images don't do Mexico City justice (it's my fault, not the camera's). It's a pretty spectacular (and overwhelming) city so far. It reminds me a bit of Ho Chi Minh City, although not quite as intense adn chaotic, at least so far...

I thought this was an interesting little sunken public market space. The streets really come to life in Mexico City. Markets, Hawkers, and Performers fill the streets at more or less all times of the day.

What's going on in there?!? Similar to Lisbon and Porto, Portugal, I've stumbled across a number of abandoned and/or gutted buildings that are sprinkled throughout the city.

Big and Brutal.

Click here for Mexico City photos!

|PAUSE|

2009-08-09T22:53:00.003-04:00

I recently touched down in the U.S. to plan and prepare for the next leg of my journey south of the border to Latin America. This brief pitt stop has enabled me to organize my documentation and take care of practical issues such as obtaining visas, purchasing airfare, etc. NIKOLE.ver[s].THE.PLACE and the corresponding Flickr entries are finally updated, so enjoy and stay tuned for more to come from Latin America!

Day 178 : Pamukkale

2009-07-26T21:36:00.013-04:00

I have been anticipating my visit to the travertine terraces since the day I began compiling my points of interest during the summer of 2008. I arrived in Pamukkale early this morning after an overnight bus ride from Goreme. I was advised that it is best to visit the 'Cotton Castle' at either sunrise or sunset when the scenery is more magical and the temperatures are more moderate. I began my ascent to the Cotton Castle at 5:00PM. My initial reaction was 'Wow, this isn't exactly what I expected, but beautiful nonetheless'. The travertine terraces unexpectedly emerge from a grass covered landscape creating the illusion of snow capped hills.

Several of the travertine terraces provide pockets where small pools are formed, some of which are deep enough to bath in.

I found the variety of materials and patterns to be astounding.

The terraces at Pamukkale make you think you are in a cold, barren Antarctic landscape. It's hard to believe that mother nature can be so breathtakingly beautiful...

Click here for Pamukkale photos!

Day 177 : Ilhara Valley

2009-07-26T16:24:00.014-04:00

Ilhara Valley! More to come...

Click here for Ilhara Valley photos!

Day 176 : Göreme

2009-07-25T22:41:00.012-04:00

Zelve! More to come...

Click here for Goreme photos!

Day 175 : Göreme

2009-07-25T19:57:00.017-04:00

The Open Air Museum at Göreme! More to come...

Notice how the built and the natural begin to melt into one another...

An approaching rain storm at sunset

Click here for Goreme photos!

Day 174 : Göreme

2009-07-25T15:24:00.017-04:00

I arrived in Goreme, Cappadocia this morning after an overnight bus ride from Istanbul. I immediately made my way to my hostel and placed my things in my cave room. Just call me Wilma Flintstone! From there I decided to take a hike through Pigeon Valley to the nearby village of Uchisar. The Cappadocian landscape is breathtaking. I was in awe throughout my entire hike.

Interesting adaptive reuse : Dry riverbed as grazing ground

Uchisar Castle is the highest point in Cappadocia

Cappadocia's version of a green roof system

Click here for Goreme photos!

Day 173 : Istanbul

2009-07-25T12:56:00.005-04:00

Today I visited the Topkapi Palace, a massive complex just behind the Aya Sofya. The material palette is magnificent and most of the rooms within the palace have stunning ceilings. My favorite part of the palace was the harem, not because of its programmatic implications, but simply because its spaces were seductive.

This form of natural lighting occurs numerous times throughout the harem. It caught my attention not just because it's formally interesting, but it's rather effective and projects unique patterns on the lit surfaces. These small openings provide a nice, warm, soft light that enables the space to glow.

Click here for Istanbul photos!

Day 172 : Istanbul

2009-07-25T12:33:00.006-04:00

I took the ferry from Istanbul to the Princess Islands this morning. The boat was so crowded! I felt like I was heading to Ellis Island instead!

Click here for Istanbul photos!

Day 171 : Istanbul

2009-07-25T12:25:00.002-04:00

The Istanbul waterfront. Standing in Europe, looking at Asia.

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Day 170 : Istanbul

2009-07-24T18:40:00.024-04:00

Today was my 'Let's go see what Nikole studied in her History of Architecture classes' day. I started with the Aya Sofya then made my way across the green to the Blue Mosque. Both were stunning, though a bit difficult to appreciate from the exterior when hordes of hagglers are verbally attacking you. Can't a girl just sit and sketch in peace? Anyway, the more I experience Islamic architecture the more I fall in love with it. Makes me wish I enrolled in those Islamic Architecture elective courses...

Like the Sagrada Familia, the interior of the Aya Sofya is more or less a live construction site, though not nearly as exciting or compelling as the Sagrada. Apparently all of the restoration work is being done for the 'Istanbul 2010 : European Capital of Culture' celebration.

An sneak peak into the layers that create the Aya Sofya. It's a nice little blemish, no?

An Aya Sofya visitor peers out the window to catch a glimpse of the Blue Mosque in the distance.

A typical street scene in Old Istanbul

This afternoon I made my way over to the Grand Bazaar. I think I have been spoiled by the colorful, aromatic markets in places like Morocco, India, and Vietnam. For me, the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul was a bit of a disappointment. The space itself is quite beautiful, but it's difficult to fully appreciate it with distractions like modern glass storefronts and fluorescent lighting everywhere. At times I thought I was at the Turnpike Mall in Augusta, Maine...not the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul.

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Day 169 : Istanbul

2009-07-24T18:25:00.004-04:00

I spent most of today traveling from Barcelona to London and London to Istanbul. I arrived at my hostel in the later afternoon at which point I grabbed an over due shower and some much needed rest. Below is the view of Istanbul from the rooftop of my hostel.

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Day 168 : Barcelona

2009-07-24T18:16:00.004-04:00

Yesterday my foot decided to swell up, keeping me more or less bed bound, so I didn't really have a chance to see much. I was feeling much better today so I decided to get up to see the Parc Güell by Gaudi before I leave Barcelona. I prefer his work at the Sagrada Familia much more, however the view was quite nice as it helps to demonstrate just how massive this city is.

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Day 166 : Barcelona

2009-07-23T17:35:00.020-04:00

I've met numerous non-architects throughout my travels thus far that have visited the Sagrada Familia and can't stop raving about it. Now I know why. Today I had the pleasure of seeing it with my own eyes, and yes, it is pretty spectacular! Antoni Gaudí was a genius. I'm still having a difficult time comprehending how he was able to design and construct such forward thinking creations, so long ago.

For some reason Gaudí's work reminded me a bit of the research being done by Neri Oxman at MIT. Her design research MATERIAL ECOLOGY investigates the "intersection between architecture, engineering, computation, and ecology". Seeing what Gaudí was able to produce along with research being done by scholars like Oxman gets me pretty excited about the future of architectural design...

One of Gaudi's many section drawings of the Sagrada Familia

Some people may disagree, but I thought it was pretty awesome to see the Sagrada Familia as an operating construction site. Where else can you tilt your head up to see such seductive structures, then tilt your head down to see the many men (and women!) working away, constructing the space right in front of your face. Don't get me wrong, I'm excited to see the space complete and empty (in 2026!), but for now it provides a great learning experience for everyone that pays it a visit.

This afternoon I hopped on the metro which took me far out to F.O.A.'s Auditorium Park. I had studied it a bit in one of my landscape architecture courses in college. Seeing it in person was a bit, well, strange. As architects we typically have a vision for how our space(s) will be activated once it is realized. You know, those flashy, photoshopped images with kids running around and couples walking hand in hand? I'm sure that the Auditorium Park does see more visitors from time to time, but what I experienced this afternoon was a more or less abandoned, over grown park.

I did manage to find one couple across the way, outside the park.

From there I made my way over to the Forum Building by Herzog & de Meuron.

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Day 165 : Barcelona

2009-07-23T17:13:00.007-04:00

You can't come to Barcelona without checking out Mies van der Rohe's Barcelona Pavilion. I paid a visit to it today and clicked some pretty cliche shots...

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Day 164 : Montserrat

2009-07-23T16:43:00.009-04:00

Today I took the train ride up to Santa Maria de Montserrat from Barcelona. My first stop was at the Basillica then I continued upward for a hike to Sant Jeroni.

Crazy rock climbers along the way...

Finally, I had reached the top!

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Day 163 : Barcelona

2009-07-23T16:35:00.004-04:00

Most of today was spent in a bus driving from Madrid to Barcelona. As soon as I arrived I took a stroll down the ever famous La Rambla (which is about as touristic as it gets!) en route to the seaside.

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Day 162 : Madrid

2009-07-23T15:14:00.014-04:00

Today I made my way over to the Caixa Forum designed by Herzog & de Meuron. The project reminded me a bit of the Steedman Competition problem - More or less an adaptive reuse project. From the exterior I found the project to be quite beautiful. Very simple and clean moves that are pretty powerful. It seems like they decided to test similar strategies at their Elbphilharmonie Concert Hall in Hamburg, Germany. As far as the interior goes, well it left a lot to be desired in my opinion.

Pretty awesome party wall...

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Day 161 : Madrid

2009-07-23T15:09:00.002-04:00

Most of today was spent traveling from Porto to Madrid and getting some much needed rest after a whirl wind of an evening celebrating Sao Joao. Just a bit of travel advice...Fly Ryan Air only if you have:

1) One checked bag that weighs less than 15kg

2) One carry on bag that weighs less than 10kg

If you are traveling with anything more than this...don't even think about it!

Day 160 : Porto

2009-07-22T21:58:00.007-04:00

I spent most of today 'on the farm' with Gabriela, but this afternoon I made it in to Porto for a stroll along the river before this evenings Sao Joao festivities began.

Quaint community gardens along the Douro River.

So this eve is the Porto holiday celebrating Sao Joao. Pretty much the craziest thing I have seen in a long time. Around dinner time people begin accumulating in the streets of Porto, finding their way to the nearest barbeque to catch a batch of fresh grilled sardines. After dinner the streets become more and more congested, filled with people eating, drinking, dancing, and just plain old having a good time. Midnight brings a series of firework displays which more or less marks the start of the evening.

Gabriela enjoying some Sao Joao Cotton Candy while an envious onlooker passes by...

My attempt to document dancing in the street. The camera went into hiding soon there after...

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Day 159 : Porto

2009-07-22T21:44:00.005-04:00

Today Gabriela kidnapped me and whisked me away to her home in the countryside just outside of Porto. She insisted that I eat her proper home cooked meals and swim in her pool. I wish I was kidnapped more often...

Thank you Gabriela! New York City misses you!

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Day 158 : Porto

2009-07-22T21:00:00.011-04:00

Quirky Cool Elevations and Casa de Musica...

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Day 157 : Porto

2009-07-22T20:50:00.004-04:00

I arrived in Porto later this afternoon, so I didn't get to see too much of the city. I decided to save my energy for the next few days...

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Day 156 : Lisbon

2009-07-22T20:08:00.009-04:00

I spent today roaming around Lisbon - Mostly in the Alfama neighborhood. I found several small, intimate plazas sprinkled throughout the hillside neighborhoods, reminiscent of those in Chefchaouen, Morocco.

Portuguese tile work

I have come across several buildings much like the one below - Completely gutted with only the exterior walls remaining. I'm not quite sure what the story is behind these projects. They're pretty fascinating though...

I've fallen in love with Lisbon Laundry. It has such a dominant street presence.

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Day 155 : Lisbon

2009-07-22T14:11:00.037-04:00

More to come...

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Day 154 : Sintra

2009-07-21T23:38:00.015-04:00

Sintra! More to come...

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Day 153 : Seville

2009-07-21T23:29:00.004-04:00

Most of today was spent organizing the events that will happen throughout the next few days. I did manage to take a break to walk around Seville a bit more. Along the way I came across this, more great Spanish graffiti:

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Day 152 : Seville

2009-07-21T22:53:00.009-04:00

Today while roaming around Seville I noticed a few interesting things:

Like these canopies (somewhat reminiscent of the canopies in Morocco) that seemed to dress (and undress) the various artifacts throughout the city...

These...ties? Well, I'm not really sure what they are. If anyone has an idea feel free to share it with me! I thought they were pretty intriguing in any case...

A major difference between Spain and Morocco: Public Displays of Affection. There's a lot of it here!

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Day 151 : Córdoba

2009-07-21T22:13:00.008-04:00

Typically I don't get uber excited about churches, cathedrals, mosques, etc. - But The Great Mosque at Cordoba really caught my attention. Maybe it's due to the entrance, and the warm welcome I received:

But most likely that's not it...I think I fell in love with this space because of moments like this, where you can really begin to see and understand the layers of history that have accumulated in this space over hundreds of years.

Sure, maybe it's a bit of a one-liner...a Church within a Mosque, a Mosque within a Church, but I like it. And the fact that both have such an overwhelming presence in the same space intrigues me more and more each time I think about it.

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